Monday, November 05, 2007

* Ia Chay: RE the outbreak of the runs, it's the vegetables. Those god-damn raw vegetables! (or so says someone
from WHO, who told someone I know). So leave mam tom out of this. Though it is still banned

* After eating nom du du on Thursday and Friday, all the accompanying veg I had with bun cha on Friday, the salad I had on Friday night... I was thinking I was eating healthily. The Ngoc Ha market was half-empty this morning. Only meat and fruit available, so the powers that be are taking this pretty seriously.

* The weather, oh we'll always have the weather: A stunning day, like a perfect Irish summer's day (no sniggering at the back), 25 degrees, blue sunny skies... but my office colleagues are wearing jumpers and scarves. It was good enough for the turtle (perhaps he's Irish?). He clambered up onto the island in Hoan kiem lake to soak up the rays according to that man-about-town-Julio. Of course, the turtle might just be trying to get out of the murky depths to breathe. Of course if you foolishly believed everything you read at Pittstop Works you'd know that he's actually a 62-year old retired sub-aquatic minesweeper.

* I am, for the record, wearing socks.

* Correction: I said that Thuy Linh was a verb and an adjective, but it was actually Vang Anh, the name of the show she was in. Example: A young man comes home late at night and his brother will tease him, I'm translating obviously, "You were out doing a Vang Anh", or something along those lines.

Thursday, November 01, 2007

The mam tom bellyache



Foreigners often retch at the sight or thought of mam tom (fermented shrimp paste) and while ye hardy-eaters and locals might titter at others timidity before wolfing down some mam tom on top of your tofu or cha ca, it appears that the infamous purple substance is the cause of an outbreak of the runs. Really, really bad runs according to this article.

A few dozen patients in the capital city and other northern provinces have been hospitalised with identical symptoms: diarrhea, vomiting, and water exhaustion and up to 90 per cent of these people ate raw food, such as -- we all need a scapegoat in times of trouble -- mam tom (shrimp paste)!

According to the article, the local authorities have even banned the use of shrimp paste at restaurants -- I'd like to see if that's actually being followed -- and people are being warned off other raw goodies such as those pork rolls (nem chua) you get at bia hoi.

Banning mam tom and nem chua... well I never.

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Thanh Nien invites us to Meet Bill from Saigon -- doesn't look a day over 80 but apparently he's in his 50s. It's a clip made by an American guy who was smitten by Bill -- real name Hung -- and his youthful exuberance. His clip on youtube has been watched over 69,000 times. Proof we'll watch anything someone else has watched. I just did anyway. I was person 69,169. Seems like a lovely old fella but hardly surprising that an old guy can speak English in Saigon, is it? Near my office there's a hall of geriatric table tennis enthusiasts and one of them speaks Spanish, French, German and Russian and even some Chinese. It disappoints him no end that as I speak none of those languages we have to speak in Vietnamese and so he doesn't have a chance to show off in front of his mates.

Monday, October 29, 2007

1) A wee CAMA shindig on Halloween night -- details there at Hanoi Grapevine the new Arts listings blog

2) (Almost) time to invest in North Korea? Apparently the wee man is into the Vietnam-economic-template -- however unlikely that is.

3) Language evolves: apparently Thuy Linh is now an adjective and a verb. "Don't be Thuy Linh", or "don't do a Thuy Linh..." Still not quite sure how that works... but anyway, the people who uploaded the sex-clip featuring Thuy Linh have been rounded up and arrested and "according to Vietnamese criminal law, the culprits would be fined some VND3-30 million (US$300-3,000), probation up to three years, and possibly three imprisonment depending on their involvement." Thuy Linh herself is in the clear (of course though her career is over) but she might have a new fiance...

4) No reason to mention football this Monday as the Minsk FC's season has gone completely pear shaped.

5) Apparently the Irish invented the words baloney, jazz and dude and many more. Well, according to that guy anyway. Can't vouch for it but a few make certain sense -- go leor becomes galore, uisce to whisky, Teddy de Burca Snr. points out Slan becoming so long, and so on.

RE jazz: OF ALL THE hundreds of American slang words that he [Cassidy, the author] has traced back to the Irish language, his favourite is jazz. Ironically, the name is associated with African-American music, though the earliest performers of "jazz" didn't like the word. Jazz comes from "teas", a noun for heat, passion and excitement. He's traced the use of "jazz" as a synonym for sex as far back as 1899. Musician Richard Holbrooke wrote in 1974: "I shall be glad to swear on oath before a notary public that 'jazz' as a sex word was not only used in San Francisco before the earthquake and fire, but that it was of such common use that it was a localism."

"Jazz was so full of jasm and gism ('teas ioma' - an abundance of heat and passion; figuratively semen) that no one could, or would, write it down. In 1913, it was a word you learned by ear - like jazz music."

Thursday, October 25, 2007

Ex-Hanoi resident and illustrator extraordinaire Paul Oslo Davis has his first animation online called Personal Hygiene. Check it out -- hover your mouse over the right hand side and click on the black and white eyes...

It's part of a show called Animated which features 14 short self-portrait animations by a collection of Australian illustrators and animators working in a range of styles -- presented by the National Portrait Gallery in Canberra.

And while I have ya -- speaking of Australian culture....
New head of hair : On Phu Dong Thien Vuong street a small shop’s sign simply reads Chay (Louse). Inside the staff offer an equally simple but unusual service – picking out grey hairs. The boss is 20-something Nguyen Anh Dung, who packed in his job at a foreign-invested firm to become the pioneer of grey-hair-plucking in Vietnam, if not the world. Five months ago when Dung opened the shop, he could neither hire anyone to work in his shop nor get an advertisement in a newspaper as people thought it just plain daft – or possibly too weird. Dung persuaded his relatives to help him out and has got his business up and running and trade is good enough for him to be contemplating opening a second shop. This time, Dung says he might advertise as a normal barber’s to ensure a smoother start up. For those of you who are heading the way of Steve Martin, a one hour service costs VND30,000.
The international papers are really digging this Thuy Linh scandal: Her fall from grace has highlighted the generational fault-lines in Vietnam, a sexually conservative culture within which women have been taught for centuries to remain chaste until marriage and stay true to one man — no matter how many times he cheats on them.

... new ideas about free love are much harder to accept than the free market. And unlike men, women who break the old sexual taboos are not easily forgiven.

In the old days, Khanh said, a woman who had sex before marriage would be ostracized — and rightfully so.

"A good girl must keep herself clean until she is married," Khanh said. "Thuy Linh should be condemned. If I ever see her again on TV, I will turn it off, for sure."


Life, eventually, will move on.

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Racers busted
A bunch of young boy racers came a cropper with the coppers recently.

Of course, 32 arrests from a speculative total of 1,000 racers means -- by my swift calculations -- there's another 968 racers still raring to rock and roll come the weekend. Guess the clampdown might deter them but I'd imagine only briefly.

One officer kicks off the blame game by suggesting that a "lack of supervision" from parents leads to such races.

Methinks more parents should be encouraged to sit on their children from the hours of 1am to 4am. Should clear up this problem in no time.

Who's next in line for Pittstop troubleshooting?

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Well, it's been all beautiful Autumn days and diddley-squat else here at Pittstop HQ.

Vietnam's been a flutter with a sexual scandal -- even the beeb is talking about it -- involving a 19-year old TV star: "This is the most scandalous and controversial thing that has ever happened in Vietnam's virtual world."

...meanwhile the boys are crowding the girls out in Vietnam: "...over the past few years, in tandem with rising incomes and easier access to clinics that determine foetal sex and conduct abortions, the number of male births has raced ahead of female ones. Already, the number of boys born in many regions of Vietnam exceeds those of girls by 20 per cent or more..."

Sadly the much anticipated season of glory for Minsk FC is yet to get going. Pictures here. Playing at My Dinh Stadium – on the training pitch rather than inside the stadium, alas – the boys were under the cosh for most of the first half, but thanks to some resolute defending and Ali's goalkeeping heroics it was only 2-0 at half time rather than 10 -0. In the second half the lads went three down before deciding to fight back, but two goals were too little too late. For a team with aspirations of winning the title, a heroic loss doesn't cut the mustard anymore but... "It's more of a marathon with a very slow, laboured start rather than what you might call a quick sprint," the Gaffer John Cinnamon reassured the lads.

Monday, October 22, 2007

Bradford's Zippos

Monsieur Bradford Edwards' Vietnam-American-war era zippos and zippo-pieces are on display in Santa Barbara... there's a wee video clip embedded in that report.

"A lot of these sentiments I heard before, 'We're the unwilling led by the unqualified doing the unnecessary for the ungrateful'," he says. "It rings a bell."

Zippos by the thousands were left behind in Vietnam. Fifteen years ago artist Bradford Edwards began collecting them at Vietnamese flea markets.


There's a more in depth piece on Edwards and his zippos from the NY Times last year here: He collects the metal lighters by the hundreds; he studies them; he celebrates them as tiny symbols. He searches for deeper meanings in the epigrams etched into their shiny sides by the American soldiers who left them behind. With grave whimsy he turns them into art.

If Vietnam and his warrior father remain enigmas to him, the answer, perhaps — if it is not blowing in the wind — can be found etched on the sides of Zippo lighters:

“Yea though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil for I am the evilest son of a bitch in the valley.”

“Death is my business and business has been good.”

“I’m not scared, just lonesome.”

“Please! Don’t tell me about Vietnam because I have been there.”

“I know I’m going to heaven because I’ve spent my time in hell: Vietnam.”

“Ours is not to do or die, ours is to smoke and stay high.”

“You’ve never really lived until you’ve nearly died.”

“If you got this off my dead ass I hope it brings you the same luck it brought me.”

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Hear about contemporary art scene updates on the Grapevine
Hanoi has an art scene that you might not know about. Some of ye might not care while others, yes, you want to be out there rubbing shoulders with les artistes, sipping on red wine and scratching your chin earnestly but the problem is you're always hearing about all these cool exhibitions after the ship has sailed. When you arrive the exhibition is over and no one is around to see you scratch your chin... you retreat to the nearest bar and commence the simple process of inebriation and -- if you're like me -- talk about either sport, traffic or the weather.

One local artist was so sick of missing events himself, he's decided to post stuff he does hear of to help circulate information (and hopefully attract more info as he can't post what he doesn't hear of, if you knowwhadimean) so others can find out about some cool exhibitions and events and so forth.

If you're interested check out the blog -- Hanoi Grapevine. You can also sign up for the mailing list there.

Monday, October 15, 2007

Bits and pieces

1) More food blogging: Besides gas•tron•o•my which I pointed out a few posts back, there's also The Last Appetite – a pretty slick looking food blog – also based in Vietnam.

2) You might of read about the plastic Russian policeman who helped reduce speeding by his sheer presence -- and presence alone -- last year, while now in Australia a new campaign aims to tease men into slowing down. The "little pinkie" campaign suggests men who speed are compensating for something.
Sixty-one per cent of young males surveyed for the research believed the campaign had the power to make them think about their own driving behaviour, he said.

"This campaign is about saving lives - not pride. If it dents a few egos but helps save a life, then it's worth it," Mr Roozendaal said.


It'll be a while till such an ad might hit this neighbourhood I suppose. I reckon the Russian approach might be duoc-able though. Either that or a huge generic-mother-like figure looming over the traffic lights.

(Cheers to Caitlin for the link...)

3) A local celebrity-gossip blogger will be sued by a singer for defamation... apparently the word 'nymphet' was used... but looking at the singer I'm guessing that's a mistranslation.

4) If you're trying to save petrol money perhaps an Alaskan Malamute is the answer...

5) Flooding has already been a total disaster for some impoverished people in Hai Lang district, Quang Tri province in Central Vietnam. After local authorities organised a relocation plan to move houses away from flooded lands, 47 families from Hai Lang were relocated to a hilly area in Hai Lam commune and offered an allowance of VND4.7 million ($300) to build a new house. The families already feeling a bit shortchanged then discovered that the area is a former battle field full of unexploded ordnance. Nearby a sign posted by Renew, an organisation specialising in disarming mines and explosives, warns of the possible dangers of setting foot on the land. Perhaps a mistake made in haste? Unlikely, the plans for the relocation were made 10 years ago.
(Source Timeout)

6) Another bloody 0-0 result for the Minsk Football Club over the weekend -- no review yet but there are a couple of photos – and the strikers are not happy, ahem.

Next week we will be playing at the National Stadium however. That's right – the fortress of My Dinh itself. More on that later...

Monday, October 08, 2007

Hirsute head bopping
More Stylish Nonsense -- my new favourite people from Bangkok. There's a few more videos up on youtube of their shows around the world...

This one is the song -- live in Hanoi -- I linked to a few days back in its entirety...



...and this one is the belter, which they played third I think, when the crowd went oh-yeah, live in Berlin. Sound quality is not the Mae West but you get the general gist.

If you like Vietnam-food blogs, in the style of Sticky Rice (Hanoi), and noodlepie (which is no longer in Vietnam), there is now gas•tron•o•my. It's based in HCM City.

Sunday, October 07, 2007

It was Hanoi's most handsome footballers, the Minsk Football Club versus Hanoi's most French footballers - the Drink team on Saturday. The Minsk strikers faltered but thankfully their defense and GK didn't. A scoreless draw in the end. Pictures here and a particularly good one of the bouncing gaffer. Despite two scrappy draws and three injuries in three weeks, the Gaffer is refusing to panic.
"It's a marathon not a sprint," he would have told the press if the press were listening.
Nothing much happening here at Pittstop HQ, but here's a few vids for the bored and restless

1) Check out a short snippet from Stylish Nonsense at the recent CAMA show in Hanoi. One of the happiest performers I've ever set eyes on. Would like to see a vid of the third song, which was a belter.

2) For those of you who care, extraordinary scenes on the rugby field at the Coupe de Monde (renamed the Coupe de Merde by some in Ireland).

Worth watching the Haka again, if not the whole game, but also the forward pass that led to the winning try... oh dear, methinks that referee won't be welcome in New Zealand anytime soon.

Friday, October 05, 2007

* A journalist for the Age hangs on to his plastic stool on a night out over at Hanoi's bia hoi corner

Wednesday, October 03, 2007

1) "I cannot imagine myself wearing trendy clothes together with a helmet," said Le Tra My, 18, who was shopping for hats at an upscale store in Hanoi. "It will look awful." Read on.

Like I'm so not wearing one - puh-lease! But as of Dec. 15th they say it's the law. We shall see...

2) Yup - storm a-coming. Walk away from the water.

Tuesday, October 02, 2007

The Minsk Football Club's season is underway: A hard fought 2-2 draw with ESE -- match report here -- out in the strange new universe that exists around UNIS.

Like driving around the set for the Truman Show out there.
Author's note: The weather cooled off last week and I ended up opening the sock drawer for the first time since April. Of course since then it got hot again but don't tell the socks...


Ode to a sweet reunion

Well, hello socks. It’s been a while hasn’t it? But don’t worry – no longer shall I be gallivanting around town sockless a la Tubbs and Crockett. There is chill is in the air that only brings me closer to you.

For months I’ve been seen everywhere with my feet scantily clad by those racy summertime harlots, my sandals, while sipping on Mojitos and sitting under the breeze of the nearest fan. My lord, how foolish I must have looked, like a middle aged married man drunkenly showing off a young girlfriend in a crowded bar.

At times I thought that summer would last forever. But they never do, do they my dear socks? Your annual re-emergence is proof that time marches on, seasons come and seasons go. Soon the cold weather will strip the blossoms bare and little old me, why I’ll be wrapped up head to toe in woollies, teeth chattering, cursing the depths of winter, praying that it won’t last forever; but let’s not go there just yet, for now the scarves, hats and gloves remain stored away. For now let’s enjoy our sweet, selfish and intimate reunion.

Autumn has arrived and with it a pleasantly cool air. Now like two young student lovers after a long summer apart, we shall go everywhere together, be seen by everyone around this campus people call Hanoi; we shall be inseparable once more. Each morning my feet will slip unto you, like… well, like a hand would unto a glove, but let’s not speak of those distant and lofty relatives of yours, let us speak of us.

I know I have said some foolish things in the past, haven’t we all dear socks. Once I remember declaring it was a joy to be so free and easy in the foot department and how I could live, quite happily, without you forever more.

I admit that my house smelt approximately nine thousand times better with out sweaty-Argyles and malodorous thermals lying around the house, but how can I fault you for my own body’s rank emissions?

You certainly never complained. You soaked it all up and it all came out in the wash (with the kind assistance of my dear housekeeper). Then when the sun broke and the sounds of summer hummed, I callously tied you all up into a giant socktupus (the freeform creation, which occurs when 22 pairs of old socks and a few dozen odd socks become one entity), slid open this drawer and hurled you into the darkness of exile and solitude – with the exception of my old unworn underpants, who have their own brave and chequered history to make peace with.

But you, my dear socks, your summertime hibernation is at an end; we shall dilly-dally no more. From here on out, with the exception of those of you that have too many holes and will be turned into dusters (alas, the sword must outwear its sheath), we shall go a-roving once more!

With the exception of really hot late Autumn days that is.

By Teddy de Burca Jnr.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

1) AP Story on Vietnam's exceedingly cashed up consumers: "Members of the new generation want to enjoy life and pamper themselves with luxurious things," said Nguyen Thi Cam Van, 39, who has purchased five $1,000 handbags at Louis Vuitton.

"If I can afford to buy something nice, it makes me feel proud," said Van, who works at Siemens and also consults for a Vietnamese import company. "It lets you show people your taste and style."

One of her friends has 50 Louis Vuitton bags, Van said. "I think five is enough."

Read more on that here.

2) Book:
Everybody's talking about Dang Thuy Tram, again - there's even a Dang Thuy Tram tour.

For those who don't know, she's the doctor who died during the American war, but shot to fame in 2005 after her diaries reemerged after 35 years in a Vietnam vet's possession in the States.

The diaries were published as a single book which is now translated and available for ye overseas folk.

Apparently customers who searched for Last night I dreamed of peace also expressed interest in: Roast Chicken and other stories by Simon Hopkinson,
Like You'd Understand, Anyway: Stories by Jim Shepard while others bought What We Knew: Terror, Mass Murder, And Everyday Life in Nazi Germany by Eric A. Johnson and Restless Virgins: Love, Sex, and Survival at a New England Prep School by Abigail Jones.

Fascinatingly unhelpful marketing by dear auld Amazon.

3) Don't forget - Stylish Nonsense all the way from bangkok live in Hanoi this Saturday

Monday, September 24, 2007

The Minsk Football Club's one match pre-season training was declared satisfactory by still-our-special-one Johnny Cinnamon despite the controversial goal for the opposition that technically meant the game was a draw.

Members of the opposition admitted the ball did not cross the line and in fact came off the cross bar. So it was declared 3 goals to 2.5 win for the Minsk. Check out the match photos and Rastafarian -inspired coloured jerseys here.

"Playing would be easy if your colours were like my dream,
red gold and green, red gold and green."
1) Wheels of fortune

2) Do not forget - this Saturday, Stylish Nonsense, all the way from Bangkok, will be performing in Hanoi. See the post below for more info...

3) Bia Here Now: Also don't forget to review your local bia hoi or your favourite one and send it to Hanoi Bia Hoi. There's one week left for September's review-competition. The winner gets a dinner for two at Highway4. There's 43 reviews already and only several thousand bia hoi left to review. Check the website out to see what's been done. Hai Ba Trung district is heartbreakingly sparse. Latest review - 19c Ngoc Ha double-teamed by Pittstop Works' very-own Yorkie and Dr. Son Tinh, who obviously didn't try the sausages, otherwise he would have mentioned them.

Thursday, September 20, 2007

Pittstop approved Special Event...

The future sound of Bangkok...


...on the way to Hanoi

Riding the skytrain in Bangkok reveals a beguiling skyline like nowhere else on earth. Ornate tradition blends with the seemingly futuristic, showing a disorienting disregard for aesthetic conventions.

The Thai capital’s runaway development over the last decade has been matched by the growth of a magpie-like indie music scene, which blends disparate global influences into a colourful and dizzying Siamese whole.

Hanoians who attended the Bear Garden concert last November at CAMA’s old Hang Trong location would have had a taste of this already. Now CAMA are bringing the Bangkok vibes to Hanoi, once again, this time at a unique Nha San venue a few hundred metres from the Gia Lam side of the Chuong Duong Bridge on Saturday September 29.

Making their Hanoi debut will be Stylish Nonsense, one of the longest running Thai indie outfits who encapsulate many of the elements that make up Bangkok’s 21st century pop culture.



Although they cite formative influences from Nirvana and the Smashing Pumpkins to the Charlatans and the Boo Radleys, they seem to have been most profoundly marked by Nintendo Family Computer soundtracks between the years 2529 to 2533 (Buddhist Era).

In their work, these primitive digital melodies combine with vintage analogue equipment and the supremely funky live drumming of Yuthana “June” Kalambaheti. The overall effect is akin to soundtracks for non-existent 70s TV shows careening into 32k game cartridges.

June and his Stylish Nonsense partner Wannarit “Pok” Pongprayoon met as freshman engineering students at Bangkok’s King Mongkut Institute of Technology and started performing together as Meauwer, recording pop-songs inspired by the Charlatans onto 16bit sound cards.



Over time (and with the loss of a third member) Meauwer became Stylish Nonsense. Stylish Nonsense are primarily a live band, having released only one full-length album in nine years. However during that time they have also lugged their collection of analogue keyboards to gigs as far afield as Germany, Japan and Paris.

Asked to name his favorite Stylish Nonsense show, June mentions a Berlin concert during which he was suffering from a serious fever but where the feeling of having nothing to lose pushed the band to take their sound even further out.



Talking to Stylish Nonsense you get the impression that their whole career has been one of constant evolution and searching for new modes of expression. The band bemoan the fact that while the Thai indie scene has grown much larger over the last 10 years, this has not necessarily led to more diversity or experimentation among their peers. Regardless Hanoi locals who want to witness this duo causing a commotion need only cross the bridge over the Red River next Saturday.

By Kjartan Hallibut

Where? Nha San Ben Ho, Bo De, Long Bien, Hanoi – turn right at end of Chuong Duong bridge, drive 400m and turn right again into Bo De street. When? Music starts at 8pm. No excuses for being stylishly late no matter how nonsensical you are. In the meantime, you can check out: www.myspace.com/stylishnonsensebkk

Buffalo head-butting contest

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

What the ...

Stumbled on this four-month old rapping-podcast on Lonely Planet's website by a young American-chap: The Hanoi hustle.

Kids these days.
Quick Link
The pace of change in Hanoi comes at what cost to 'auld' Hanoi - an AFP story.

Timeout also covered overcrowding in the Old Quarter this week - coincidence!? No such thing - but the link isn't up yet. Come back tomorrow for more on that.
Same planet, different worlds…
When it comes to transport, the ultimate symbol of wealth and luxury on four wheels is undoubtedly the Rolls Royce and Hoang Khai – the man behind Khai Silk – is the proud owner of Vietnam’s first ever Rolls Royce car after splashing out over $600,000. According to the Thanh Nien translation of a Tuoi Tre story, the used, 2006-model Phantom, is a four-door sedan equipped with a 453hp, 6.75-liter cylinder V12 engine and six gears. Quoted on Yahoo at $328,750 it got nailed with import tax, luxury-item tax (a.ka. you’re-filthy-rich-and-can-afford-this-tax), and 10 per cent value-added tax. Several buyers in Ho Chi Minh City were interested but Khai out bid them all offering an undisclosed fee.

Holy moley there's a lot of rich people around in expensive cars. The same hummer keeps on driving past me near Truc Bach lake. A bleeding Hummer? says you. Yes, the High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle is needed to negotiate that bumpy stretch of road by the Sofitel Plaza.
No Hoo woo during peak hours

Mr. Cyclo and his San Souci posse will be forced to work around peak hours for traffic in an attempt to ease congestion in Hanoi. The Hanoi People’s Committee announced that new regulations concerning the brigades of tourist cyclos meant that they’d only serve tourists and wedding ceremonies and must avoid the streets between 6am and 8.30am, 4.30pm to 7pm. Each cyclo can carry one adult and one child. I now eagerly await the first stand off between the proud mother of a groom and his merry-gift-carrying-men on their way to an An hoi (Engagement party) at 9am – Wedding Season starts soon I think. Did you know there are only 300 tourist cyclos drivers with a license to “Hoo-woo!” and the municipal authorities will not license any more, or so says the director of the Hanoi Department of Tourism. The cyclo drivers will have to pedal in formation as well – in groups of five with 50m distance between groups. “We must balance interests. We consider cyclos as a cultural characteristic of Hanoi, which is a vehicle to serve tourists, but the use of cyclos must not affect traffic,” added the director.
Hors d'oeurves

Helmets go like hot cakes
With stricter traffic laws meaning all State employees must wear helmets this month as well as all motorcyclists on national roads, as of September 15, not surprisingly it’s a very good month for people selling ‘rice cookers’. However, demand is currently far higher than supply, so if you’re looking for a new helmet you might find yourself in a bit of a rugby-style scrum this month as thousands scramble for the remaining stock. Of course, wherever there is a strong demand there is a naughty little-so-and-so trying to make a fast buck. Ho Chi Minh City officials have reported that fake or low-quality items are being sold on the market. However the Market Monitoring Agency is on the case and confiscating substandard helmets in the city. One unlicensed shop in Binh Tan district was rumbled selling phony helmets with Honda brand names stuck on the side. Let’s hope the helmet-traders are stocking up on authentic products as demand will only be on the rise as all motorbike drivers (even those of you with pretty hair-dos!) will be forced to wear helmets as of December 15.

No liquids!
At this stage most international travelers will have discovered the joys of having after-shave, perfume, bottles of Evian, wine or perhaps 12-year-old Scotch, confiscated while boarding flights. Security measures mean no liquids are allowed on board most international or domestic flights these days and Vietnam’s Civil Aviation Administration has announced from this October, passengers will not be allow to bring liquid on board all domestic flights – so no bottled water, soft drinks, perfumes and we presume nuoc mam. All items must be checked in as stored luggage. Medication is acceptable, while baby milk and foodstuffs are also allowed. But these bottles must contain no more than 100ml of liquid be carried in clear bottles and contained in a transparent plastic bag. Liquid items bought from duty-free stores at the airport must be put in the sellers’ sealed transparent plastic bags, which must be enclosed with receipt clearly stating the purchased time and location. So be careful if you’re bringing along a fancy bottle of bubbly for your holliers.

Monday, September 17, 2007

From VIR's Timeout: Burning down the house

With the increasing affluence in Vietnam perhaps it’s no small wonder that even votive offerings now cater for the nouveau riche in the next life. Minh Phuong reports...
Now back in the 1980s people would have offered votive money or clothes, which are pretty cheap and simple to make but also conceptually speaking an obvious gesture. Rich families might also have burnt a votive maid when the master of the house died. No one wants to break the habit of a lifetime, even in the next life.
Of course, now that the lives, habits and culture of Vietnamese people are diversifying in the modern world the votive offerings are following suite.
Citizens of the underworld are receiving increasingly sanh dieu (hip) offerings such as fancy cars, stately motorbikes, opulent houses and, to make sure cash is on hand, ATM cards.


Yup, votive money is passé. Now people offer latest electronic goods: Nokia N series mobilephone, a SH motor bike, a laptop, a Plasma TV and an Ipod at prices ranging from VND50,0000 to VND150,000 ($3-$9).

“One night, I dreamt of my father complaining about his car. He asked for a Lexus like his neighbour in the underworld,” says Ngan who owns a silk shop on Hang Gai street. “The following morning, I found the perfect kind, a black Lexus, at the Dong Xuan market. It was a bargain at VND100,0000 ($6.5).”
Georgia, Georgia.... the whole day through
Just an old sweet song keeps Georgia on my mind


Sunday, September 16, 2007

The VND14-trillion traffic jam in Saigon. But who's losing the money?!

The Rugby World Cup continues. Another late night watching the Irish struggle to a highly unconvincing win against the stubbly Georgians, who clad in the colours of St. George barged over the Irish line in the closing minutes but fortunately, for us Irish, failed to touchdown. Victory by the skin of our teeth I tell you what. The Georgians probably deserved it on effort and considering it was practically their second team the result is a total embarrassment for the multi-million-euro-spending Irish Rugby Football Union.

But we won and so we live to fight another day – le Vendredi prochain to be exact. But all optimism is now officially vanquished. Like Austin powers sans mojo or a ship without a sail, as well as a engine, rudder, tiller, captain, map or compass... and suddenly the Irish rugby machine is lost at sea.

Currently there's probably only one thing worse than watching the Irish play rugby and that's watching us play football, but thankfully there's no coverage for that here.

Thursday, September 13, 2007

It's Rugby World Cup time. Finally.

My beloved homeland stumbled out of the blocks with a laboured win over rugby-minnows Namibia and all optimism - sky high after a fine Six nations - has disappeared as quickly as yoghurt eaten by a man with a really bad case of the runs.

Would be fine if we didn't have to play our arch nemesis of recent years Les Phaps and The masters of the Garyowen-and-grind Argentina. It's like looking down a very dark tunnel and the only chink of light that flickers merely reveals a possible quarter final against Les noirs.

We shall see what happens and we shall not go gently into that good night. But we do really need to make sure auld hairy head (see below) doesn't cripple anyone in green. Ouch.

You may know of Thanh Nien the highly popular Vietnamese newspaper that also has an online English service. It is as of October kick-starting a daily-English-language-printed paper which is a pretty bauld auld move and hats off to the lads and lasses behind it all.

The sole competition is, of course, the VNnews, who have enjoyed a monopoly since day one and must be slightly worried how Thanh Nien English daily turns out.

If TN hits the ground running smoothly we could have a right auld tussle, no doubt spurring both parties on until one day we'll be like those lucky rascals in Thailand trying to choose between the Bangkok Post and the Nation.

By the way if you're a sub editor, Thanh Nien needs you (then so does Vietnam News - meow!).

And onwards, upwards, wayward we go.

Sunday, September 09, 2007

Concerning the recent demands of the Metropole and the Sheraton for me to wear shoes rather than sandals and pants rather than shorts to enter their respective establishments perhaps it's not just a recent trend as I suggested.

One Pittstop reader wrote to tell me of an incident concerning a dinner with some out of towners at the Emperor restaurant - a place you only take out-of-towners for a "safe" Spring Roll and Banana Flower Salad – a few years back.

His colleague, an English reporter, a man known to froth at the mouth at the sight or sound of injustice, was informed by the manager that he would have to wear trousers, rather than the shorts, to dine at the Emperor. An argument ensued. The reporter, perhaps only relenting because of the out of towners, stormed off to buy a pair of pants at a shop across the road for VND200,000. He returned, they all sat down, he grumbled a bit, they ordered and the evening resumed normal service...

...until a group of elderly German tourists arrived and were duly seated by the staff without a word despite the fact one of the German gents was clearly wearing shorts (with black socks and sandals) and violating the strict dress code that was applied to the reporter.

Now as I said he was not the sort to stand such an injustice and the manager was duly summoned and the argument re-started. The riled up reporter demanded that the manager ask the German OAP to be denied service or forced out to find some long strides of his own.

The embarrassed manager hummed, then he hawed, and rather than cause a scene with the Germans he acquiesced to the reporter's alternative demand - that the restaurant repay him the VND200,000 he just spent on a crappy pair of pants.

And that's how you stick it to the man!

Dank für die anekdote mein liebes Julian.

Monday, September 03, 2007

A Scot goes to see a man about a dog in Saigon in this article for the AGE (of Australia): In Vietnam, dog meat dinners are generally the preserve of the male of the species, and are, I soon found out, as much a testosterone-infused bonding ritual as canine culinary experience. With much innuendo as he could muster, Hoanh also explained, with accompanying lust-laden growls from Vuong, that eating dog was "good for the man". He demonstrated just how good by a wicked upward thrust of his rigid right forearm that left us in no doubt about the point he was making. Vuong howled in approval.

Read on...


Once I was also told that sweetcorn was "good for the man". In fact I've been told so many things are "good for man" sometimes I wonder what isn't.

A kick in the family jewels, says you.
Dressed to impress...



Now for starters I'd like to qualify my actions, as I am not one for going to the Sheraton's Nutz bar, which is so crazy they need to replace that pedestrian penultimate 'S' and add a more flagrant 'Z' at the end with the panache of that swashbuckling vigilante Zorro - ole! – as if the Z itself was proof that fun was a guarantee within but, you see, I was merely picking up a friend on my way past, honest. So I didn't even want to go in but regardless the security team dressed to the nines with caps, radios, orange batons and badges, stood on a raised step by the door - "My how tall you are this evening gentlemen!" - and said you can't come in wearing shorts. After the incident at the Metropole you'd have to wonder is this the start of a disturbing trend, indeed the beginning of the end. Years from now social historians will look back at the early 21st century and perhaps one will even sift through the blogs of yesteryear and happen upon these sorry moments in the life of the Pittstop Works lone staffer and pinpoint 2007 as the moment where people started getting notions of upperosity in our dear auld Hanoi.

Of course, I pointed out that I didn't intend to start playing tennis inside and several women coming out were plainly parading their legs more so than I, but alas all was lost on the SWAT-team ensemble and I'll be the first to admit my pasty pins ain't so pleasing to the eye.

Anyway, my friend emerged from the guarded-garden and we headed on. Appropriately or inappropriately enough, he told me that it was for the best as inside the bar was a load of pants.

Or perhaps that should be pantz?

Ole!

Saturday, August 25, 2007

Pittstop's muckers Dan Dockery of Highway4 and Sarah Clarke of Hanoi Street Food both appeared recently on a Discovery Channel show called Bizarre Foods with an American presenter called Andrew Zimmern.

You can check out Dan who appears in this clip below after Andrew eats at Cha Ca La Vang restaurant, which he pronounces with wonderful French flair - c'est malapropos non?


As you'll see Dan and Andrew nibble on some scorpion, roasted sparrow and most impressively a 32-cm bull's penis with the accompanying cajones grande de toro. Tastes just like lamb shank apparently.

Sarah gets a whole segment to herself, or rather her and street food do... they try a few different dishes, some papaya salad with dried beef, some 'fuh' and some No.2 coffee.



There's another four parts which I haven't watched yet but this link will take you to part one and on the side you can the other segments if yer interested at all.